In recent years, ultra-thin watches have become an arena in the watchmaking industry, with major brands vying to challenge the ultimate thickness of mechanical watches. From 3.6 mm in 2015 to 1.65 mm today, the development history of ultra-thin watches is a condensed legend of technological innovation and design art. This year, as the W&W Geneva Haute Horlogerie Show approaches, the industry’s expectations for the “thinnest” record have been ignited again. Let us review the glorious history of these ten years and look forward to the future.
Ten Years of Ultra-Thin Road: Peak Dialogue between Technology and Art
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Squelette: a first of its kind In 2015, Jaeger-LeCoultre set a new record with its Master Ultra-Thin Squelette watch with a thickness of 3.6 mm, becoming the world’s thinnest mechanical watch at the time. This watch is equipped with Cal.849ASQ movement, which continues the 1.85 mm thickness of the classic 849 movement. At the same time, it shows the perfect combination of elegance and technology through hollow design and enamel embellishment.
Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept: subverting tradition In 2018, Piaget launched the Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch, which compressed the thickness to 2 mm. This breakthrough design abandons the traditional case structure and directly installs the movement parts on the cobalt alloy case. The hidden crown adds a futuristic feel to the slim design. Although the work was initially just a concept model, the release of the production version in 2020 made it truly enter the market.
BVLGARI OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA: Ultimate craftsmanship In 2022, Bulgari will further reduce the thickness to 1.8 mm with the OCTO FINISSIMO ULTRA watch. This watch uses an innovative dual-gear system to replace the traditional crown, and the concentric dial is also split into independent hour and minute hand dials, minimizing the superimposed thickness. In 2024, Bulgari passed the observatory certification based on the previous model, and reduced the thickness of the watch mirror by 0.05 mm, reaching the top again with an overall watch thickness of 1.7 mm.
Richard Mille RM UP-01: a masterpiece of cross-border cooperation In the same year, Richard Mille and Ferrari jointly launched the RM UP-01 watch, which is only 1.75 mm thick. This watch not only has super impact resistance, but also achieves time adjustment and winding operations through a unique “keyhole” design, becoming another milestone in the ultra-thin field.
Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing: the dark horse of independent watchmaking In the second half of 2024, Russian independent watchmaking brand Konstantin Chaykin made a shocking debut with the ThinKing prototype watch. This watch is only 1.65 mm thick, surpassing all existing records and becoming the world’s thinnest mechanical watch.
Complication track: the rise of the ultra-thin tourbillon
In addition to basic ultra-thin watches, the field of complex functions is also facing fierce competition. In 2024, Piaget released the Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon watch, which became the thickest watch of its kind with a thickness of 2 mm. This watch uses an edge tourbillon design, and the mainspring barrel is installed directly on the frame to maximize space utilization.
Future Outlook: How else can the limits be exceeded?
With the advent of the Konstantin Chaykin ThinKing, the limits of ultra-thin watches seem to be approaching the physical boundaries. However, the creativity of watchmakers has never stopped, and the application of new materials and new processes may bring more surprises in the future. Will the W&W Geneva Haute Horlogerie Fair in 2024 usher in new breakthroughs? We’ll see.