As one of the most complex functions in the field of mechanical watches, the perpetual calendar has always been highly sought after by watch enthusiasts for its precision and practicality. However, the cumbersome operation of traditional perpetual calendar watches also discourages many people. Recently, the top Swiss watch brand Audemars Piguet launched a revolutionary design – the “all-round crown”, which integrates the adjustment of all functions of the perpetual calendar into a single crown, greatly improving the convenience of operation. This watch equipped with the new Caliber 7138 movement was first launched in two series, Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, with limited sales of 150 pieces each. So, is this innovative work worth buying? This article will give you a detailed analysis from the aspects of function, design, performance and purchasing suggestions.
1. “Almighty Crown”: Innovation in Perpetual Calendar Function
The “all-round crown” launched by Aifang for the first time is the core highlight of its technological innovation. Compared with traditional perpetual calendar watches that need to be adjusted through multiple quick-adjustment buttons, the “all-round crown” requires only one crown to complete all operations, including date, month, week, weekly calendar, moon phase and time adjustment. The crown has four gears, corresponding to different functions:
- Gear 1 : Rotate clockwise when not pulled out for manual winding.
- Gear 2 : After pulling it out, adjust the date clockwise and the month counterclockwise.
- Gear 3 : Adjust the hour and minute hands.
- Gear 2’ : Push back to a position similar to gear 2, adjust the day and weekly calendar clockwise, and adjust the moon phase counterclockwise.
This innovative design not only simplifies the operation process, but also avoids the trouble of using special tools. In order to realize this mechanism, Audemars Piguet developed a new stem and planetary transmission gear train, and applied for a patent, fully demonstrating the brand’s R&D strength.
Analysis of advantages and disadvantages:
- Advantages : The operation convenience is greatly improved, no additional tools are required; the design is user-friendly and suitable for daily wear.
- Disadvantages : The complex structure may increase the difficulty and cost of maintenance; it is sold in limited quantities and is difficult to purchase.
2. Design highlights: perfect fusion of classics and innovations
The new watch continues the classic design language of Audemars Piguet’s two series, while incorporating new visual elements:
- Code 11.59 series : It adopts a 41mm 18K white gold case and a smoked blue dial, showing a coexistence of elegance and modernity.
- Royal Oak Series : Available in 18K aventurine and 18K white gold versions to meet the aesthetic needs of different consumers.
The dial layout still follows the traditional design of the Audemars Piguet perpetual calendar, with the day, date, month, and moon phase sub-dials located at 9 o’clock, 12 o’clock, 3 o’clock, and 6 o’clock respectively. It is worth mentioning that the new product has made innovative adjustments to the calendar display: the outside of the dial is surrounded by base week numbers, and the starting number starts from “1”, symbolizing the concept of “from the beginning”. In addition, the starting numbers of the day of the week disk and calendar disk are also adjusted to “MON” and “1” accordingly.
What do experts say?
Industry experts generally believe that the design of Ai each other not only retains the classic elements of the brand, but also gives the watch more meaning through detailed innovation. For watch collectors, this is undoubtedly a collection opportunity not to be missed.
3. Performance: accurate and reliable, sufficient power reserve
Caliber 7138 movement has a diameter of 29.6 mm, a thickness of only 4.1 mm, a vibration frequency of 28800VPH, and a power reserve of at least 55 hours when fully wound. The movement can automatically identify complex calendar rules such as leap years and large and small months, and under ideal conditions does not need to manually adjust the calendar once until 2100 to deal with the special rules of the “Gregorian calendar”.
How is the quality?
As a top watchmaking brand, Audemars Piguet has no doubt about the accuracy and stability of its movement. The sapphire crystal bottom cover design allows the wearer to appreciate the exquisite polishing process of the movement, further enhancing the watch’s ornamental value.
4. Buying advice: Where to buy? How much? Is it worth buying?
These three watches are all limited to 150 pieces. They are gifts for the 150th anniversary of Audemars Piguet and have extremely high collection value. The specific selling price has not yet been disclosed, but based on Audemars Piguet’s brand positioning and material costs, the price is expected to be more than RMB 1 million. Due to limited sales, consumers interested in purchasing are advised to contact the brand’s official authorized dealer or store as soon as possible.
Attached are purchasing suggestions:
- If you are in a first-tier city, you can go directly to the Audemars Piguet counter for consultation and purchase.
- If it is not within the coverage of a specialty store, it is recommended to make an appointment through the brand’s official website or contact an authorized dealer to avoid buying fake products.
- Newbies need to pay special attention: there are many imitations of Audemars Piguet watches, so be sure to check the anti-counterfeiting logo and limited edition number.
Summary: Which one is best? How to choose?
Audemars Piguet’s “Omni Crown” perpetual calendar watch has successfully attracted the attention of many watch enthusiasts with its innovative design, excellent performance and scarcity of limited editions. If you pursue ultimate operational convenience, unique design language and quality assurance of a top brand, this watch is undoubtedly your best choice. However, it should be noted that due to its high price and limited release characteristics, you need to be fully prepared before purchasing.