When it comes to split-seconds chronographs, you may first think of high-end watches such as Vacheron Constantin or Patek Philippe, which also means expensive prices. It is not easy to find an affordable split-seconds chronograph, especially a new product from a Swiss or European brand. However, in late December 2024, Seagull broke this status quo. On the occasion of its 70th anniversary, the Seagull Flight Series split-seconds chronograph limited edition was officially released, priced at just over 20,000.
Seagull launches a split-seconds chronograph priced at just over 20,000 yuan, which is the most affordable split-seconds chronograph on the market
For many years, the concept of a mechanical split-seconds chronograph was limited to high-end watchmakers and sports stopwatches. Because it was complex and time-consuming to develop and assemble, and required a high level of skill from the watchmaker, the price was also high. Looking at the most cost-effective split-seconds chronographs currently on the market, the works of Maria and Richard Habring have always been at the forefront of the industry. Prior to 1993, IWC, under the genius of Richard Habring, launched a simplified version of the proven Valjoux 7750 split-seconds chronograph – this movement was used in the Pilot’s Watch Double Chronograph 3711 and the Portuguese Split-Second Chronograph 3712. After the patent expired in 2012, Richard Habring and his wife Maria, who founded the Harbing² brand, launched Doppel 2.0 with the same formula as IWC. This is an affordable split-seconds chronograph based on the Valjoux 7750 chronograph. It was a great success upon its launch and won the 2012 GPHG Sports Watch Award. A year later, Habring² launched Doppel 3.0.
Harbing² has always been very competitive on price, with their Doppel-Felix and Doppel38 watches priced around $10,000. We still remember the 2016 Sinn 910 Anniversary limited edition, which was priced at just $5,940 but has been sold out over the years. Also worth mentioning is the stainless steel Breitling Premier B15 Duograph, which is equipped with the brand’s self-produced chronograph movement B01, a hand-wound rattrapante version of the B15 movement, currently priced at RMB 78,800. Of course, there are some great options in the neo-retro space, like the aforementioned IWC. It is a pity that Sellita has not launched a split-seconds chronograph. Otherwise, there should be more options for split-seconds chronographs with price advantages. So price-wise, a new split-seconds chronograph still costs about $10,000.
Back to the watch itself, this Seagull split-seconds chronograph is quite satisfactory in terms of design. It is a classic style without much innovation. It is similar to many traditional Swiss watches. At 42.5mm in diameter and 12mm thick, the watch is quite reasonably sized. The case is made of titanium with a polished and brushed surface and is topped with a double-domed sapphire crystal. The back has a beautiful decagonal screw-down sapphire case back. There are three buttons on both sides of the case – this is the classic layout of the rattrapante hand. The two standard buttons are located at 2 o’clock and 4 o’clock respectively, and the rattrapante button is located at 10 o’clock. Through this button, the independent second hand can be paused and recorded, while the main chronograph second hand continues to run, meeting the need to accurately record two time points. The pushers feature a guilloché effect, reminiscent of Patek Philippe’s current reference 5172, or the vintage reference 1463. Is this a nice touch or a bit of a crappy detail? This depends on personal aesthetics.
As for the dial, it has the same traditional layout, with a silver base, sunken small seconds and 30-minute counters, slightly raised inner edges, a tachymeter scale, and polished stylized Arabic numerals to mark the hours. In addition, the Seagull icon and name are inlaid at 12 o’clock. The time is indicated by a blue leaf-shaped pointer, which has a good touch. A pair of central seconds hands serve the double-second function. This watch is paired with a 22mm black alligator leather strap and titanium pin buckle, which is equally classic and restrained.
Inside the case is the ST1961 movement. This split-seconds chronograph is based on Seagull’s classic manual winding movement ST1901. Seagull transformed the historic manual winding, column wheel and horizontal clutch movement ST1901 into a split-seconds chronograph movement. This transformation is relatively simple and comparable to the ingenious and simple solution Richard Habring once designed for the Valjoux 7750. The split-seconds function is achieved by adding a module to the movement, based on a cam operating system (simpler and therefore cheaper than the column-wheel drive version), using a traditional clamp to stop the additional central seconds hand, and using a heart-shaped cam to allow the upper hand to “catch up” to the main seconds hand and return to its original position when the clamp is released. The movement itself contains 27 jewels, vibrates at 21,600 vph, and has a power reserve of 45 hours. The workmanship of this movement is much finer than that of Seagull’s entry-level movement. The upper double-seconds split-seconds bridge is engraved with Geneva stripes and polished and chamfered.
The ST19 series is a five-hand watch movement with a time measuring mechanism that can count minutes, seconds, and indicate hours, minutes, and seconds. Formerly known as the ST3 aviation watch, the structure imitates the Swiss VENUS175 movement, which is a chronograph movement using a cylindrical wheel mechanism. Combining years of development in watchmaking technology, Seagull Watch optimized the design based on the ST3 military aviation watch, an original ministerial-level identification product produced in the 1960s, and developed the ST19 multi-function chronograph mechanical watch movement, which is the only manual column gear stopwatch movement in China.
This Seagull split-seconds chronograph model is 418.13.1077, limited to 500 pieces, and can now be ordered on the Seagull official website. As mentioned earlier in this article, the price is a surprising 23,800 yuan or $3,499. Maybe people have different opinions on domestic watches, but in all fairness, this new split-seconds chronograph is still worth the money.