As the first of IWC’s “five major series”, the Portuguese series is based on historical works from the 1940s. It uses elements such as track scales, Arabic numerals, and willow leaf hands, integrating the aesthetic essence of classical watchmaking. Today’s IWC Portuguese series has formed multiple product lines and developed “three classic models”. Let’s take a look at their respective characteristics and focuses.
IWC Portuguese Automatic Watch 40 (IW358312), first of all, the basic model of the series: Portuguese Automatic Watch 40. This work was released in 2020, and the dial uses a small three-pin layout. This layout is in line with the historical works of the 1940s. Its launch has changed the situation in which the IWC Portugal series was mostly presented with complex functional models in the past. The starting price of RMB 57,600 (belt model) provides the “flagship series” with a simple-function, relatively easy-to-get option.
Looking back at history, this is not the first time that the IWC Portugal series has launched a small three-pin model. However, previous products were either equipped with manual winding movements (Jones Arrow) or were sold in limited editions. The Portuguese Automatic Watch 40 is a regular model equipped with a “Woodpecker” movement, creating an opportunity for more players to experience the charm of the IWC Portuguese series.
The Portuguese Automatic Watch 40 adopts a see-through design, and the 82200 movement it is equipped with can be seen through the sapphire bottom cover. This is an original movement with a vibration frequency of 28800VPH, a 60-hour power reserve, and uses the brand’s famous “Pellaton” automatic winding technology – the structure is named after it resembles a “woodpecker”. For comparison, the basic functional models of the rest of IWC’s series either use the 35111 movement (Portofino) based on an outsourced solution, or the latest generation 120-hour power reserve 32111 (pilot, engineer, marine timepiece) movement. The Portuguese Automatic Watch 40 is the only series that devolves the “Pellaton” technology to the basic model, which is enough to reflect the flagship status of the series.
At the same time, the Portuguese Automatic Watch 40 also uses a moderate diameter of 40 mm. We know that the IWC Portuguese series is based on a work equipped with a pocket watch movement in the 1940s. The large diameter is its distinctive feature. As for the modern model, this feature also continues. The Portuguese Automatic Watch 40 shows its favor to players with thinner wrists in a more compact size.
IWC Portuguese Chronograph (IW371604), if you increase your budget slightly, the choice at this time is not limited to the basic model. The Portuguese series chronograph (referred to as “Portuguese Chronograph”) has strong competitiveness in the price range of 60,000 to 70,000 yuan. As the beginning of the modern Portuguese series, the chronograph function was added to the model IW3714 as early as 1998. The characteristic of this work is that it has no calendar window, a 30-minute cumulative chronograph counter at 12 o’clock and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. This up-and-down symmetrical sub-disk layout is highly recognizable, which also laid the design foundation for the sequel.
Since the launch of the first generation product in 1998, the Portuguese watch has gone through many upgrades and iterations, but the panel design has never undergone major adjustments. This design, which originated in the 1990s, still looks out of date even today, which is enough to prove its success.
The current version of the Portuguese watch will be released in 2019. While continuing to have a diameter of 41 mm, it also uses a back-through bottom cover and a 69355 self-made movement. Compared with the 79 series movement of the earlier product (solid bottom cover) based on Valjoux 7750, the pendulum of the new movement can be wound in both directions and has higher efficiency. In addition, Cal.69355 movement also replaces the timing cam with a guide wheel column, reduces the number of jewel bearings to 27, and slightly increases the power reserve to 46 hours.
IWC Portuguese seven-day chain automatic watch (IW501702), the budget has been increased to 100,000 yuan, and now it is the turn of another classic model “Portuguese Seven” to appear. The “seven” here is the abbreviation of the seven-day chain movement. The characteristic of this work is that there are two sub-dials at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock on the dial, corresponding to the small seconds dial and the power reserve display dial respectively. Compared with the two watches mentioned earlier, the Portuguese 7 watch has a larger diameter, reaching 42.4 mm (currently on sale IW5017).
The Portuguese 7 has also gone through several upgrades. Currently, the latest model in the series, the IW5017, is equipped with the 52011 movement. The vibration frequency has been increased from 18,000 times/hour in the first generation to 28,800 times/hour, the barrel has been upgraded from the original single barrel to a dual barrel with stable output, the ratchet, the core component of the Pellaton winding system, has been upgraded from copper to more wear-resistant black ceramic, and so on. What remains unchanged is that it still maintains a 168-hour power reserve.
Comparison of details between the new Portuguese Seven IW5017 (left) and the old IW5007 (right). In addition to the movement upgrade, the latest generation of Portuguese seven-day chain watches to be released in 2024 has also modified some design details: the new Portuguese Seven will slightly move “AUTOMATIC” above the 6 o’clock position on the dial, and the words “SWISS MADE” will also be moved to the bottom of the calendar window, and the orbital scale of the small seconds dial and the red decoration of the “1” area of the storage display panel will be cancelled. These changes that simplify the complex make the watch more concise.
The above are the most representative “three classics” of the IWC Portugal series. They all have a certain popularity base and have become the common choice of most players. In fact, in addition to the “three classics”, the Portuguese series also has high-end complex function models such as tidal moon phase and perpetual calendar, which is an important window for the brand to show its watchmaking capabilities.